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14 October 2026

How to Care for a Real Wood Floor

Practical advice on caring for a real wood floor: daily cleaning, protecting the finish, handling moisture and knowing when to refinish.

Restored original floorboards in a Victorian house

A real wood floor, whether solid oak or engineered boards with a hardwood top layer, can last for decades if it is looked after properly. The good news is that the care involved is mostly simple habits rather than expensive products. The bad news is that a few common mistakes, such as soaking the floor with a wet mop, can do more damage in an afternoon than years of foot traffic. Here is how to keep a timber floor looking its best, based on what we see when we are called out to repair or refinish floors across Hampshire.

Know what finish you have

Before you buy any cleaning product, find out how your floor is finished. Most real wood floors are either lacquered or oiled, and they need slightly different treatment. A lacquered floor has a hard, clear coat sitting on top of the timber, a bit like varnish. It tends to have a uniform sheen and water will bead on the surface. An oiled floor has a finish that soaks into the wood, giving a more natural, matt look, and it needs topping up from time to time.

If you are not sure, check any paperwork from the fitter or supplier, or put a drop of water somewhere discreet and watch whether it sits on top or slowly darkens the wood. If we fitted your floor as part of our flooring service, we will always tell you the finish and the manufacturer's recommended products. If you are still choosing a floor, our guide to engineered oak vs solid wood flooring explains how the construction affects long-term care.

Everyday cleaning that will not harm the wood

Grit is the biggest enemy of a wood floor. Every bit of sand or dust walked in acts like fine sandpaper under shoes and chair legs, gradually dulling the finish. Regular dry cleaning does most of the work.

  • Sweep with a soft brush or vacuum on a hard-floor setting at least a few times a week, more often in hallways and kitchens.
  • Use a microfibre mop that is only lightly damp, never wet, for weekly cleaning.
  • Choose a pH-neutral cleaner made for wood floors, matched to lacquer or oil.
  • Wipe up spills straight away, especially water, wine and pet accidents.
  • Avoid steam mops, bleach, washing-up liquid and general multi-surface sprays.

Steam mops deserve a special mention because they are so popular. They push hot moisture into joints and the edges of boards, which can cause swelling, cupping and a cloudy finish. Most flooring manufacturers will void the warranty if one is used.

Protecting the surface from scratches and dents

Prevention is far cheaper than repair. Put a good doormat at every external door, both outside and in, so grit is caught before it reaches the boards. Fit felt pads to the feet of chairs, tables and sofas, and check them every few months as they wear down or pick up dirt. Rugs help in high-traffic spots, but use a breathable underlay rather than a rubber-backed one, which can trap moisture and discolour some finishes.

Managing moisture and heating

Wood is a natural material that takes in and gives off moisture as the air around it changes. In winter, with the heating on, rooms dry out and boards can shrink, leaving small gaps. In damp summers they swell again. Some seasonal movement is normal and nothing to worry about. Problems start when conditions swing to extremes.

Try to keep indoor humidity reasonably steady, roughly between 40 and 60 percent, and avoid blasting heat straight onto the floor. Many older Hampshire homes, particularly Victorian and Edwardian properties, have suspended timber floors over ventilated voids, so keep the airbricks clear to stop damp building up underneath. If you have underfloor heating, raise the temperature gradually at the start of the season and keep the floor surface within the limits set by the manufacturer.

When to maintain or refinish

Oiled floors usually benefit from a maintenance oil every year or two in busy rooms, or whenever the surface starts to look dry and patchy. It is a straightforward job: clean thoroughly, apply a thin coat, buff off the excess and let it cure. Lacquered floors cannot be spot-repaired as easily, but a light screen and fresh topcoat can revive a dull floor before the wear reaches the timber.

Deep scratches, grey water marks, worn traffic lanes or boards that have lifted are signs that a full sand and refinish, or a repair to individual boards, may be needed. Solid wood can be sanded several times over its life, while engineered boards depend on the thickness of the top layer. Every floor is different, so it is worth having it looked at before deciding.

Get help with your wood floor

Looked after with regular sweeping, a lightly damp mop, sensible protection and steady conditions, a real wood floor will age gracefully and stay a feature of your home for years. If yours needs more than a clean, or you are thinking about a new floor, take a look at our flooring service and get in touch for a free, no-obligation quote. We will give you honest advice on whether a repair, refinish or replacement makes most sense.

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