Fencing That Lasts: Posts, Panels and Gravel Boards

Most garden fences in Hampshire do not fail because of the panels. They fail at ground level, where a post has rotted through or a panel has sat in wet soil for a few winters. After a stormy autumn, the same story repeats on street after street: a run of leaning fence, a snapped post and a neighbour wondering who is paying. The good news is that a fence built with the right parts, in the right order, can comfortably last 15 to 20 years or more. Here is what makes the difference.

Start with the posts

The posts carry everything. Panels act like sails in the wind, and all of that load ends up at the base of each post, right where moisture and fungi do their damage. That is why the choice of post matters more than the choice of panel.

• Timber posts: use pressure-treated softwood rated for ground contact (often labelled Use Class 4), not the lighter treatment used for panels. 100mm x 100mm is the sensible minimum for a standard 1.8m fence; 125mm suits exposed or taller runs.
• Concrete posts: slotted concrete posts will not rot and handle wind well, which makes them popular on exposed sites. They are heavy and less forgiving to install, and some people dislike the look.
• Hybrid options: timber posts set on metal or concrete spurs keep the wood out of the ground altogether, which can extend their life considerably.

Whatever you choose, posts need to go deep enough. As a rule of thumb, around a quarter of the post's length should be in the ground, so a 2.4m post for a 1.8m fence, set roughly 600mm down. Shallower holes are a common reason fences start to lean after one bad winter. If you would rather hand the whole job over, our exterior carpentry service covers fencing alongside decking, gates and garden structures.

Setting posts properly

How the post is fixed in the hole matters as much as the post itself. Concrete is the usual method, but it is worth doing carefully. The concrete should be shaped so it slopes away from the timber at the top, so rainwater runs off rather than pooling around the post. Leaving a little gravel at the bottom of the hole helps water drain away from the end grain.

On Hampshire's heavier clay soils, which hold water through the winter, drainage is especially important. On chalk or sandier ground the soil drains better, but posts still need a solid footing.

Choosing panels or a built fence

Off-the-shelf panels are quick to fit and keep costs down. The quality varies widely, though. Thin lap panels with flimsy frames may only last a handful of seasons, while heavier closeboard or tongue-and-groove panels with treated frames stand up far better.

For longer runs, sloping gardens or anywhere privacy and strength really matter, a built closeboard fence is often the better choice. Rails are fixed between the posts and vertical featherboards are nailed on site, overlapping each other. Because it is built in place, it follows the ground more neatly and copes with wind better than a run of panels.

Why gravel boards matter

A gravel board is a board fitted along the bottom of the fence, between the posts, so the panel or featherboards sit just above the ground. It is a small, inexpensive part that does a lot of work. Soil, leaves and plants pile up against the bottom of a fence, keep it damp and slowly rot it. With a gravel board in place, that damage happens to a part that is easy and cheap to replace, rather than to the whole panel.

Concrete gravel boards last the longest and pair naturally with concrete posts. Treated timber boards look softer and suit timber posts, but they will need replacing eventually. Either way, try to keep soil and flower beds from building up against them.

Rough costs and looking after it

Every job differs, so treat these as rough guides only. A straightforward panel fence with timber or concrete posts is generally the most affordable option, while a built closeboard fence costs more in materials and labour but tends to last longer. Removing an old fence, tricky access through the house, or a sloping garden all add time. A proper site visit is the only way to give a reliable figure.

Once it is up, a fence needs little attention. Treat timber every few years with a suitable preserver or stain, keep climbing plants trimmed so they do not pull on panels, and check the posts after a big storm. Catching a loose post early is far cheaper than replacing a whole section later. If you are also planning a new gate, our guide to made-to-measure garden gates covers how to match it to your fence.

Getting your fence built right

A fence that lasts comes down to sound posts set deep, good drainage at the base and a gravel board keeping timber off the soil. We build and repair fencing across Hampshire as part of our exterior carpentry work, from replacing a few storm-damaged posts to new runs around the whole garden. If your fence is leaning or you are planning a new one, get in touch for a free, no-obligation quote.